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THE
ROADS OF CHARD
For
thousands of years, the countryside of southwest Somerset must
have been covered with a network of track-ways and paths.
Evidence of human habitation dates from warm periods in the Ice
Age, some 50,000 years ago. To follow the story of Man's lines
of communication from ancient track-way; through the roads
symbolic of the power of Rome; the journeys of medieval monks;
the high life of the romantic coaching days; to the
technological age with its powerful vehicles, is the aim of this
present fascinating study.
Prehistoric Trackways
(before 50AD)
The first
trackways were created when animals and then people made regular
seasonal journeys along the same routes. A local example of this
was when the rivers from Chard to the sea were exploited both
for the raw material for tool making, chert (a coarse flint),
and food in the form of wild animals, marsh birds and sea fish.
Numerous beautifully worked chert stone tools made by Old Stone
Age (Palaeolithic) people have been found at Broom gravel pit
below Tytherleigh and by the River Axe. This indicates a
preferred summer habitation site of early man, in a warm period,
when mainland Britain was still joined to Europe. Further cold
spells were still to come, though, and the early tracks would
not have survived these extreme conditions. Millennia passed
before man could return. Once more beautifully made local stone
axe and arrowheads were made in the New Stone Age (about
3000BC), this time using flint from the cliff at Beer Head.
These first ridgeways along the more open tops of the downs to
the sea grew naturally.
In the
succeeding Bronze Age (about 1500BC), burial or way-marking
mounds such as Combe Beacon and Northay Barrows were constructed
beside the principle tracks which were used both by long
distance traders and also as part of a local network. More
troubled times (about 300BC) were to come as the great local
fortified encampments of the Iron Age show. A ring of these can
be seen from the hill above Chard; Ham Hill, Lewesdon, Pilsdon
Pen, Coney's and Lambert's Castles, Membury and Castle Neroche.
The track-ways on the high and dry ridges still carry some of
our local roads today and often include "short cut" sections
originally only passable in Summer (see map 1). The ridgeway
running along the Blackdowns is continuous, north from Combe
Beacon to Castle Neroche and then west to Culmstock Beacon. To
the south-east of Chard, an even more important prehistoric way,
now called the North Dorset Ridgeway, ran from the coast at
Axmouth, via a chain of hill-forts, Hawkesdown, Musbury, and on
to Lewesdon and beyond. Various possible linking routes between
these ways can be seen. The driest but not the shortest, passed
along the watershed where Chard now stands, then headed for
White Down on the Windwhistle ridge before turning south to
Pilsdon Pen. In lower Chard, only a narrow strip would have
remained dry, because there, roadside springs turn north or
south to the rivers Isle or Axe. At this time, some local people
probably lived near or in the small circular enclosure by
Kingston Well Lane. Another of the summer routes passed a larger
ringwork at Bounds Lane, continuing on to Storridge and
Sadborough.
Finally,
the line of two locally important trackways branching from the
Blackdown Ridgeway must be mentioned. The first appears to have
run south from Buckland, past Northay Barrows, along Bewley
Down, to Membury Castle and beyond towards the sea. The other
heads west from Snowdon to Hawberry hill-fort (above Horsepool
in Whitestaunton Parish). It is most noticeable on the map today
because it was used later to mark the County Boundary.
See map.
Roman
Roads (50 - 410AD)
Many
earlier ways continued in use or had sections added. Soon after
the first stage of the Roman conquest of Britain was completed
(about 50AD), a military frontier supply road, later called the
Fosse Way (a fosse was a roadside drainage ditch) was built. It
linked the legionary fortress at Lincoln with the Southwest,
passing the settlements of Leicester, Cirencester, Bath and
Ilchester. It probably originally ended at a wharf beside the
wide anchorage in the Axe estuary. Some sections of these are
still major roads, such as the A303, Ilchester to Petherton
Bridge. The Fosse Way appears to have initially had a chain of
forts associated with it, the nearest being on Ham Hill (within
the Iron Age hill-fort), Waddon (a supposed cavalry fort to the
rear of the Fosse), Woodbury (where the Dorchester to Exeter
road crossed) and Seaton (overlooking the harbour). Looking at
the area close to Chard in more detail (map 1), it ran
south-west from Ilchester on the line of the A303 road to
Petherton Bridge, then on a minor road though Dinnington, In the
climb up Windwhistle hill it deviates to the east, probably to
avoid wet areas in Chillington. On the climb, a terrace way and
then an agger (construction ridge) can be seen. Passing Cricket
St. Thomas on the A30 road, an agger bears off to the left under
the trees. At this ancient crossroads the famous White Down
cattle market and fair was held. Continuing on the approximate
line of the B3167 road, traces of Roman buildings have been
found on the right. Further on, the names Street Farm and Perry
Street are significant (straet was the Saxon word for a paved
road). From Tytherleigh, the A358 to Axminster represents the
line in places. In later Roman times, the Fosse Way was largely
used for commerce, the more frequently used sections being more
strongly constructed than others were.
Minor
roads to the Fosse Way would link many nearby estates (villas)
such as Wadeford; Whitestaunton and South Chard, but the line of
these roads is conjectural. The prehistoric trackway (now the
A30) through Chard was probably "Romanised" because a slight
agger and some Roman finds have been found in places on its
north side.
Celtic
(410 - 680AD) and Saxon (680 - 1066AD) Ways
The
withdrawal of the power of Rome, destroying the largely money
based trading conditions of some 350 years, reduced but did not
remove the need for trade. Trade in small settlements reverted
to the former hilltop exchange centres, which developed a
network of radiating tracks. Whitedown Fair is known to date
from 1361 but probably had much earlier origins. An ancient
pilgrimage chapel of St. Wite stood nearby but was destroyed by
lightning in 1740. Another market site may have been at the
Bounds Lane ringwork (called Coldharbour), west of Chard and
this may also have been used for administration of the area. A
mention of a "Mot Way" (see History of Chardstock) could refer
to the ge-mot (the meeting place). Very little can be inferred
about Celtic times, when the area came under the Kings of Devon
and Cornwall but where useful, parts of the roads of earlier
periods continued in use.
The coming
of the Saxon penetration and administration in about 680AD
resulted in a change of spoken language and place names. Some
early land charters with boundary descriptions also survive.
Ways that were in use at this time can be inferred from place
names such as Wadeford, where "ford" has been added to an
earlier form of the same word (waed). Another early ford was at
Forton (Fordington - the large farm's ford). Some charters have
boundary descriptions, the nearest being that for Ilminster
(704AD). In this, a branch of the White Way called Sticklepath
(map 2) is described as running (east) to join the White Way and
then running down to Cress Ford (on the River Isle). In those
times without maps, way markers were important, for example,
beacon can mean just a sighting point and Sticklepath (steep way
in open country) runs up to it from the former Forest of Neroche.
Punishment places were also beside roads, as the name
"headstock" (a head-post) near Ilminster and Holditch indicate.
Ways came in a variety of quality and purpose. The most
important were harepaths (army roads) such as the one running up
to Castle Neroche from the east. In Tatworth, Church Path was
probably so called because it ran up the "creech" (the hill)
from the open common field (see booklet Tatworth Middle Field).
Another way in this field was Ellen Stile - the steep way
lined
with elder bushes. Near Perry Street, Bug Way may have been
thought to be haunted!
The Fosse
Way continued in use and at Chillington gained the name
Fisherway, the way used by fishermen. By Tytherleigh, it was
Walway, the way leading to Cornwall. This way was also important
because it led to the coast, always a dangerous place,
especially in the days of Viking pirates. Many harepaths also
led there, by hilltop or valley, and various battles between the
county army and raiders are recorded. Such ways were, for
centuries, used by packhorses moving dried sea salt inland from
the coast. Salt was a vital ingredient for preserving food.
See map.
Medieval Ways (1066 -
1485AD)
So many of
these ways are difficult to identify, but with the granting of
the charter of Chard Borough in 1235, the evidence is surer. The
Charter outlines the bounds of the new borough, giving it a long
axis for a market area along Fore Street - High Street and a
shorter one along Combe Street (Crimchard Lane) - Holyrood
Street. These bounds remained unaltered until 1892. This was an
attempt to promote and profit from the growing trade developing
along the Crewkerne - Honiton road, an important route to the
West. An Itinerary (route), dated 1400-1405, for
Premonstratensian monks travelling from Tichfield Abbey to a
sister house at Torre in Devon, describe the way through
Salisbury, Shaftesbury, Sherborne, Yeovil, Crewkerne, Chard,
Stockland, Honiton and Exeter. This must have been the way
which, bearing left at the top of Snowdon, runs past a
lost way-marker called Cock Crowing Stone, a
former pond called Spittle (early roadside hospital?) and a
barrow at Higher Wambrook. It then passes over Bewley Down, down
to Longbridge at Higher Yartyford and then to Stockland village.
The most important maps of the time, Paris 1250 and Gough 1360,
show this main West Way clearly. Chard, although not named, can
be identified as one of the towns along it. This does not mean
that the alternative Fosse Way route via Axminster ceased to be
used. Royal Itineraries of 1200-1300 preferred it, probably
because it was safer and more suited to wheeled traffic. The
holders of the manors through which routes passed maintained
medieval ways. Those designated King's Highways were legal
rights of passage for the king and his subjects. The law decreed
that it was the good passage and not the beaten track that was
the highway. By a statute of 1285, land 200ft
(61m) either
side of ways to market towns (included Chard) had to be kept
clear to prevent robberies. Note that the word "road" was not
used before Tudor times.
Tudor to
Turnpike Times (1485 - 1760AD)
The first
real effort to maintain many main roads, neglected since Roman
times, was an Act of 1555, which placed the burden on the
parishes, using newly created Surveyors of Highways. By this
time, Chard badly needed effective and safe roads to carry its
growing production of cloth to the port of Lyme Regis. The Book
of Customs there gives for 1586 the amount of cloth from Chard
merchants, Edward and Henry Mondaie, Robarte Tucker, and John
Cogane, which formed part of the cargo of the ship Fforesighte
of Lyme. This cloth was transported to Lyme via Axminster by
packhorse, causing a considerable flow of traffic along the way.
By 1607, much of the cloth exported from Chard was destined for
"Britanie Rochell and Bourdeaux. In the 1500's, the old west
road passing through Chard to Honiton, via Stockland, was
considered inadequate but stayed in use for travellers on foot
or horseback. It was later improved, a bridge at Longbridge
being shown on Saxton's map of 1575. In 1677, it was reasonable
enough for the town to be a stage on the western postal route or
"running" as it was designated. The mails were carried on
horseback at 5 miles per hour (8km/h), a half-hour stop being
allowed at each stage. In 1720, Ralph Alien of Bath obtained a
contract for the "cross posts and by posts" of England, the
Somerset post towns (for collection and distribution of mail)
being Bristol, Bath, Taunton, Crewkerne and Chard. Direction
posts had to be provided by an Act of 1698. In 1724, the
antiquarian, William Stukeley, described it as "a very bad road
of stones and sand, over brookes and spring heads and barren
downs". Earlier, in 1645 during the Civil War, Fairfax marched
from Honiton to Chard, via Axminster, not Stockland. In the
first map showing roads in Somerset (Philip Lear's 1690 edition
of Saxton's map) and in traveller's guides (such as Britannia
Deplete or Ogilvy Improved of 1736), there is no road shown
going through Chard. Instead, the Fosse Way from Windwhistle to
Axminster was recommended.
Turnpike
Acts and Local Trusts (1753-1895)
The Act of
1555, mentioned above, was a partial failure, because the
"voluntary" labour required by the Act from all able bodied men
was said to provide opportunities for vast and disorderly rural
"picnics". The first Turnpike Road was established as early as
1663 on a section of the Great North Road. The Act allowed the
Counties affected to charge tolls for the maintenance of the
road. In 1706, a standard scheme was devised, whereby a Board of
Trustees was granted powers to issue shares and use the money to
pay officers, erect tollbooths and turnpike gates and
milestones. The gates were set at the entrances to towns or
villages or at busy road junctions and usually consisted of a
swivelling horizontal bar or turnpike. Travellers had to pay a
fee or toll at the gates before proceeding. The collector of
these tolls generally lived in a tollhouse built beside the
road. These were purpose built or sometimes adjacent cottages
were used. Typically, they had angled windows to view
approaching traffic and a board to display the scale of charges.
These varied according to the type of vehicle, the number and
width of its wheels and its load. Animals in herds were charged
by the score (20). The roads were looked after by a way warden,
appointed by each Parish Council. At first, toll keepers were
directly employed but later the collection of tolls was "farmed
out", each gate receipts being sold annually to the highest
bidder. To get the lowest price each year, the "farmers" kept
their receipts secret. In times of agricultural depression, many
ways of avoiding the payment of tolls were tried, and to combat
this the Commissioners put up more gates with bars on side
roads. There were various Acts of Parliament setting up the
Turnpike Trusts. These were all local Acts until 1822, when a
General Act was passed that repealed all the previous Acts.
See map.
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